I have to put my foot down. Push came to shove and now we about to chuck ‘em. If you can’t tell from these words, I am genuinely bent. Why am I bent? Two words: Mexican food.
Anyone who has spent enough time around me knows that I love my Mexican food. I grew up eating my mom’s and grandma’s cooking, so Mexican food is something that is deeply personal to me. We don’t know how long these recipes have been in our family, but we do know that if you are going to cook you better do it right or get the hell out of the kitchen. You should see how upset my mom gets when something she made isn’t up to spec (it never happens but she is just that on point with her food – we usually can’t tell).
As a general statement, the Mexican food scene in Los Angeles is probably the best in the nation top to bottom. From little joints specializing in chilango food like Huarache Azteca, to nice sit down restaurants tackling the complexity of the Yucatan like El Portal, Los Angeles has it all. What I love the most is that there are other Mexican restaurants out there that I am dying to try, like Amaranta and the venerable La Serenata de Garibaldi.
So things must be all good right? Vic lives near the best Mexican food anywhere, he must be happier than Roger Clemens with a needle in his ass, right? Nope, not by a long shot (no pun intended). A couple of things have gone down in the past few months that have really changed the way I view Mexican food. Some expected some not so expected. The masa has hit the fan; something in the Mexican food game needs to change.
A few weeks ago the homey D-Roc was in town visiting from the Bay Area. After much phone tag, we finally decided to meet up somewhere in Pasadena for dinner. We both decided that El Cholo would be a good look for some Mexican food. Rewind a few years back. My Uncle Raul and I went to El Cholo like in 2002 and had an awesome meal. We both ordered the carnitas dinner and they might have been the best I have ever eaten. Each plate had several rock-like lumps of braised pork. All you had to do was take the back of the fork to break the crispy exterior to reveal a solid mass of juicy, stringy heaven. After that meal, I was certainly convinced that El Cholo had the best carnitas in L.A. … period!
When D-Roc came, I said we should go El Cholo. I was woofing my ass off on how it was super legit food. He went with the blue corn chicken tamales and I ordered the carnitas. His food was good, my food was down right offensive. Instead of the crispy heat rocks of yesterday, I got a diced pork chop floating around in some white liquid. I almost sent it back, except that it was really late and I was starving. D-Roc enjoyed his food, and I am singularly happy for that. I would have hated for his dish to have been terrible when I really woofed about this joint.
The next offense came at the hands of a controversial figure: Chipotle. A lot of my Latino brethren do not like the Chip because it lacks the amorphously-defined “authentic” Mexican flavor. Well, I’ve been to Mexican joints that claimed to be “authentic” as Benito Juarez himself only to get bad food. A few bites into the food and you think, “Yep, this right here is an authentic piece of crap.”
I have never been all that big a fan of Chipotle because I have always been around better Mexican food. However, I do like their approach. Their food is freshly cooked, made to order, and they try to use the best ingredients possible (pure avocado, Niman Ranch pork). I just don’t know how I can go back there after the burrito I had the other day. Chipotle simply lacks the course work in basic and advanced burrito construction. The burrito I got was terribly put together, bursting at the seams due to an unwanted serving of “extra rice.” Once you bite the burrito, you are more likely to get a bite of just one ingredient like rice or beans and seemingly nothing else. I found myself in a better mood once I reached the Promised Land: three to four “all-meat” bites of Niman Ranch carnitas. But as soon as my joy came, it left. After eating that section, you realize that the rest of the meal is all down hill BECAUSE YOU JUST ATE ALL THE MEAT IN YOUR BURRITO!! By this time, I was just so pissed that I couldn’t be more pissed at the fact that the tortilla was legitimately frigid, chewy mess. I can tell you right now, real spit, that my mom or grandma would never EVER make a burrito that terrible.
Let me digress for a second and I promise that this rant will make more sense. If you have followed international business or are a foodie, chances are that you have heard of the changes in labeling that prohibit the use of regional names in the marketing of products. A few years ago, it would have been kosher to classify a product from Napa Valley as “champagne.” Today, that same product has to be called “sparkling wine.” The term “champange” can only be used from products that are made within a certain region in France. Much ink has been spilled on this particular trade problem.
In the same way the French are trying to protect their wine-making tradition, the Japanese government has announced that they will begin the process of “certifying” American restaurants that purport to serve Japanese cuisine. The goal of the program is to honor those American restaurants that are at the forefront of serving authentic Japanese cuisine.
I hate to say it (gulp), but the French and the Japanese are right. It is the job of a country, or its people, to defend its culinary traditions from the bastardizations of modern consumer culture. If Vic was running things, I would form a task force that would grant or revoke licenses to sell Mexican food. If you sell bad food, whether in a nice sit down joint or a taco truck, you will get your license revoked and you wouldn’t be able to serve Mexican food.
See what you all have made me do? I don’t really want to be the Burrito Nazi, but I will if I have to. Who is to blame for all this? Firstly, Mexicans. Secondly, Whites. Mexicans bear the brunt of the responsibility because we have just gotten lazy. There is no reason for a cold tortilla or a poorly rolled burrito. We as Mexicans have commoditized a part of our culture and are turning it to crap really fast. Think of the last time you got some bad Mexican food. Do you think those cats in the kitchen cook like that for their families? No, not a chance in hell. Whether you are rolling up a two-dollar bean and cheese burrito or you are slow-roasting some cochinita pibil, it is important to carry on the traditions in a responsible way.
White people bear some responsibility for this mess because Mexicans have been serving up crap and you all have been loving it. Last night I Yelped the neighborhood to find a good Mexican joint and it was hard to tell which ones were good and which ones sucked. Almost all of them had a three-plus star rating. Not only did they all have high ratings, but they all had at least one uber-glowing review like, “OMG!! This is the best taqueria ever!!!”* I went to one of these highly rated joints the other night and it was terrible. I never thought I would see the day when I would get a flaccid burrito. No lie.
I love my culture and I love sharing it so I take it personally when Mexican food restaurants don’t have their game tight. I do not know how, but we have let this go on far too long.
If a player on the Mexican National Soccer team screws up, we yell at the coach to pull the bum out. If someone comes to our party and shows up with a dirty bottle of Sauza, we tell them to stop being cheap and bring some Patron. But when we know that some spots are serving sub-par Mexican food, we turn a blind eye and let it slide. What gives?
*NOTE: I know its White people who review on Yelp because Mexicans don’t have computers. All the Mexicans in L.A. have like a combined total of 9 computers and Migg, Uncle Raul, and I have about six of those.